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Our carriage and demeanor, as usual, left nothing to the imagination. By the fourth day of our trip, we started to notice the scarcity of same-sex couples. We traversed Glacier’s Going-to-the-Sun Road, making abrupt stops to hike down to waterfalls, which were gushing in their full majestic glory.

Picture Jack from “Will & Grace” and his slightly more masculine boyfriend amid a group of farmers. “Maybe I’m less flamboyant than I used to be,” I whispered to Joe. The highway, which climbs roughly 3,500 feet as it crosses the Continental Divide, had been fully cleared of snow only 11 days earlier.

I’m basically a walking stereotype (yes, I packed my hot pink Lacoste polo).

There is a lot of whispering in ears and standing close and giving little love pats. In a rented sport utility vehicle, we set out from Bozeman in an afternoon rainstorm and drove north, stopping overnight in the hillside capital of Helena, where the governor in April signed a bill decriminalizing “deviant” gay sex. ) Our ultimate destination was Glacier National Park, but we took a detour through Great Falls to my birthplace: Conrad, a one-stoplight prairie town near the Canadian border.

Instead of our usual dash-in-and-dash-out approach to Montana visits, my partner, Joe, and I decided to precede the wedding with a seven-day driving tour of the state.

For me, a gay man with a longtime partner, Montana has long been an ugly place. My younger brother, Brit, was getting married in Big Sky, the resort town outside Yellowstone National Park.

Conrad is a Podunk place, not much more than a gas station and a few agricultural businesses.

But it also seemed like a good spot to take Montana’s inhabitants and their allegedly new live-and-let-live spirit for a test drive.

”), and Joe and I were soon enjoying the small-town quaintness of a voluminous article in the local newspaper: garden club members had been grappling with the best way to comply with a “hot and spicy” theme at this year’s fair. We made fools of ourselves, or at least caricatures, by taking 10,000 close-up pictures of wildflowers, in particular the rust-colored patches of Indian paintbrush. People shopping at the Walmart in Great Falls did not seem to appreciate my dancing-in-the-aisles enthusiasm for the pop song “Call Me Maybe” when it came over the store speakers. A feeling that we honestly never anticipated for this trip, less vacation than fact-finding mission, started to seep in: relaxation.I gave Joe a peck on the cheek and we sat down on a picnic bench to listen to the music, his arm around my shoulders.We felt completely comfortable: not a word, a stare or a smirk inhibited us. But I wasn’t about to make it easy for her, so we headed back toward Big Sky by taking a rural route, driving south down Highway 83, which cuts through the Flathead National Forest to Seeley Lake.Enjoy easy accessibility to award-winning restaurants and shopping as well as Glacier National Park.From fishing on Flathead Lake to world-class skiing on Whitefish Mountain, enjoy the breathtaking views of Big Sky Country like never before.

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